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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might expect renowned high-end names. But, nestled high among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the owners totally shocked.

“I am totally astonished,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble shop securing such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its original feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this culinary triumph.